Saturday, 27 July 2013
Tuesday, 23 July 2013
If my posts about life in Bodrum have whetted your appetite and you are thinking of planning a trip to South West Turkey, you could do no better than to pick up a copy of the Bodrum Peninsula Travel Guide written by fellow blogger Jay Artale, For a gal from Norfolk who now resides in LA, Jay lives up to her moniker "Roving Jay" as her busy life takes her around the globe, but she has certainly brought together all the relevant information that will make sure you get the best out of your holiday to the Bodrum peninsula. While I ramble on about old ruins, almost inaccessible temples and life 30 years ago, Jay has bang up-to-date knowledge of the best way to get around and what not to miss. Originally planning to buy a house in Greece, Jay was captivated by the Western edge of the Bodrum Peninsula and ended up buying a house here with a view to eventually retiring in Turkey. She is an ace networker and news-follower and I'm constantly amazed that she knows what is happening before I do and I'm only down the road. I've downloaded a copy on to my phone so if I find myself in one of my less-frequented villages, I can have a quick look at the guide to check I'm not missing anything.
Jay has kindly offered BacktoBodrum readers a chance to win 5 digital copies of her guide. All you need to do is to either leave a comment at the bottom of this post or send an email to email@example.com and we will put all the entries into a hat and pick the winners on 2nd August. If you are lucky, we will need to know your email address and which Amazon area you live in.
Friday, 19 July 2013
I'm used to being smug about Turkish tomatoes and extolling the joys of a plate of sliced toms with olive oil, but I think the Swedes have taken the baton in the taste and variety race and left us standing. This is the small greengrocer I visited every day and there are 15 different types of tomato, ranging from deep purple to bright yellow and large round globes to tiny tubes. All taste as delicious as they look.
Wednesday, 17 July 2013
While the rest of Europe boils, temperatures in Sweden are a mild 21 degrees and a strong coastal breeze makes this feel colder. The views however make up for the lack of heat and just occassionally the wind drops and the only sounds are the screaming of gulls and oyster catchers and the phut phut of an outboard motor.
Monday, 15 July 2013
Friday, 12 July 2013
My failsafe recipe for summer lunches is sea bass with bay leaves.
Ingredients per person:
1 large potato, 1 large tomato, 1 red onion, all peeled and thinly sliced
1 sweet green pepper, deseeded and cut in half
Large slug of olive oil
Handful of basil and parsley
salt and pepper
1 small sea bass, gutted and descaled.
1 bay leaf.
Half cup of water, fish or vegetable stock.
1 whole garlic bulb - topped and tailed but not peeled.
Heat the oven to 200 degrees C
Put a good splash of olive oil in an oven proof dish, and add all the vegetables, seasoning, liquid and herbs except the bay leaves,
Cook in the oven until the potatoes are just soft.
Put a bay leaf inside each fish and place on top of the vegetables, baste the fish with the hot liquid, pour some olive oil over each fish and return to the oven for approximately 15 minutes until a knife slips easily between the backbone and the flesh.
Squeeze the now soft pulp from the garlic bulb into the remaining juice and stir to distribute. Leave to cool for about 10 minutes and then serve, allowing everyone to help themselves at the table and dip bread into the garlicky juice.
Monday, 8 July 2013
At the end of June, our old friends Kath and Dave drove their camper van out of our garden gate and set off for Greece. We were very sad to see them go and tried to persuade them to stay longer but they have a rendezvous with their elder son in Greece so had to get on their way. While they were here we looked through my photo albums and dug up some old pictures of our Famous Five trips. The one above is from 1988. We tried to find the same spot to picnic on the way back from Lagina but the recent road-widening scheme has obliterated it and the best we could do was a lay-by. In those days, the fifth member of our group was Brian, a German Shepherd/Anatolian Shepherd cross who shared our life for 10 years.
It is fun to compare the old with the new. The theatre at Stratonikea has changed a lot in 25 years
We've had fun trying to recreate old photos, but time can't be rewound. I look completely at ease in the top picture whereas 26 years later I was distinctly uncomfortable sitting on the same edge.
We've had a great couple of weeks remembering old friends and rekindling forgotten memories. A true test of friendship is when it can be picked up and carried on despite the length of time in between visits.
|Dave turns on the tap for the first time|
Luckily I have a very practical reminder of their stay as while I was away in Scotland, Teo and Dave installed an irrigation system in our garden. I shall be reminded of our 2013 trips every time I turn on the tap.
You can follow Kath and Dave's camper van trip by clicking here
Thursday, 4 July 2013
The approach skirts Bafa lake, recognised as a wildlife treasury and duly accredited protective status as a national park.
|Rock cut tombs|
But we had been warned. Home to a female sales force described in various guides as "robust", "persistent", "relentless", "intimidating" and "annoying", the women of Kapıkırı will hunt you down to get a sale. They lurk on corners waiting for a hire-car or minibus to arrive and then shoulder their bundles of jewellery and headscarves and hurry off in pursuit to badger and pester new arrivals.
We had our secret weapon - a Teomanater - my husband can not be described as shy and retiring; on London tubes he is fond of engaging the local loony or drunk in conversation, causing all other passengers to hide behind their papers in case he picks on them too. As our first saleswoman, Ayşe, approached he subjected her to such a barrage of questions that she had to sit down and didn't even get chance to open her wares.
We'd been lucky so far and our arrival at the agora coincided with that of a minibus of more obvious potential and we were allowed to pass by unbothered. From the vantage point of a teahouse, we watched the ladies stalk any obvious tourist . We asked the menfolk sipping their teas what they thought of this commercial activity and not one had a good word to say about it. They'd also heard about the derogatory comments in guide books and on the web and weren't happy. So it's obvious who wears the trousers in this village and they are flowery baggy ones.
As we walked back to the van we spotted Ayşe in the street but before we could get too close she had darted back into a garden and pretended not to see us.
There is a 3 TL entry fee to the village.