Kissebükü - A Memory

Thirty-two years ago I sailed into Kissebükü, although I can't recall the event exactly, the feeling is still with me.  The air was stiller than normal but charged with a indescribable energy. We slowly motored around looking for a place to drop the anchor. We were the only yacht in the bay, but we could have been the only folk in the world, reality seemed to be suspended.  As the chain rushed noisily into the sea, it felt as if we were violating a sacred atmosphere. Those of you who have never experienced this will think I've been to one too many creative writing classes and am getting a bit carried away, but I know that fellow sailors will be nodding and recreating the event and the scent of pine and the crystal clear turquoise water will be just as vivid in their minds as mine.  Once moored the peace returned, the only sound the crackle of pebbles gently sweeping up and down the beach.  A walk on shore was a revelation, tumble down buildings with apse shaped additions and strange beehive  constructions that could have been churches or tombs, "Kisse" probably is a derivation of "kilise"or "church".  I didn't realise then, but there are also Lelegian walls up in the mountains behind. This place, once discovered, epitomises why I and many more returned to or stayed in this corner of Turkey.

The good news is that a new generation of sailors is still enjoying Kissebükü. It hasn't changed.  I no longer sail but occasionally make the long drive over the rough mountain roads to enjoy the peace. Others get there by walking along the Carian Trail between Ciftlik and Mazı. 

The bad news is that the bay is under threat. Despite fighting off developers in 2005 and being granted protected status, permission has been given to build a 1000 bed hotel.  Bodrumites are up in arms.  A meeting held yesterday overflowed the building. The pouring of concrete on Kissebükü is a desecration no one in their right mind can accept.

I have added a link to a Change.org petition below.  Scroll down for the English which gives all the information you need to make your own decision.  Please sign and help protect Kissebükü. 

Would this view be improved by the addition of a 1000 bed hotel? 

https://www.change.org/p/mavi-yol-girişimi-kissebükü-adaliyali-destek-ol-sesi-ol-imza-ver-support-it-be-the-voice-give-your-signature

A Tomb with a View.

Another funerary related post. In 1985, we moved from Bitez and bought a small house in the Kumbahçe district of Bodrum. We would have had a sea view, but for a large hillock in front of us, but the lack of a view made it the only house in Bodrum in our price range.  During the 80s, more and more houses were built and Kumbahçe became a desired address, but the bare mound remained. It was owned by Şalvarağa,  an unkempt  barrel of man who had a sea-facing shack, surrounded by mounds of fire wood, on his hill. If you met him in the street, you'd assume that he was on his uppers, but his shack sat on a goldmine in real estate terms.  It was understood that Şalvarağa was constantly offered great riches for his hill, but he refused to sell.
We moved away and I assume Şalvarağa died, because when we returned to Turkey in 2012 his land was being developed.  Last year, as a road was being excavated to access the incipient million-Euro -plus villas, the diggers unearthed a tomb, just under where  Şalvarağa had had his shack.  Work was stopped as archaeologists were called in to investigate.  A  gold leaf was found, enough to  date the tomb to the Roman Era, and suggest that its occupant was an important military man, as golden laurel leaf crowns were  a symbol of martial victory in Roman times.  Work on the construction was stopped for a while and I like to think that both the occupant of the tomb and Şalvarağa were looking down and having a joke at the expense of the construction company that was desecrating  their hill.

"Resting on one's laurels" - to rely on past success for continued respect. 

Winter has arrived.

The flamingos are back.

 The beekeepers are busy 

and families are out in the fields in the middle of the day. 

All signs that winter is on the way and our cue to move back to town. 

But just before I shift the emphasis of this blog back to Bodrum town; a photo taken in the local village graveyard. 

An interestingly shaped stone used as a headstone,  different from the other graves but  not so you'd notice in passing. 

Looked at from the correct angle though, an Aeolic style capital from a Lelegian or Carian site, from the 6th or maybe even 7th century BC.  There is no inscription on the grave, so I have no idea when it was put here or where it originally came from but it's another teasing reminder of how much there is to discover. 

Bodrum Offer - Buy Tomb, Get One Free.

Helen Devries14 November 2014 04:09

Knowing you are walking in the steps of those so long ago must make even a trip to the shops quite a thrill.

ReplyDelete

This comment on Thursday's post jogged my memory and sent me on a trip to the supermarket, camera in hand.  I'm sure Helen could not have guessed how applicable her words are to shopping in Bodrum. 

This  rock cut tomb was discovered about 20 years ago, just North of the Mindos gate, on the site of Gima supermarket and after excavation, incorporated into the building.  The  store is now called CarrefourSA  and as I don't shop here I'd forgotten the tomb even existed.  

Unfortunately the tomb's six sarcophagi were robbed in antiquity but sufficient bones and pottery fragments were found to date it to the 3rd and 2nd centuries BC.
If you visit, walk around the back and you'll see another tomb in the car park.  It's a shame there are no signs as I'm sure thousands of people drive by having no idea what they are missing. 

Continuity - 3,400 Years.

Lots of people complain that Bodrum has changed too much in the last 30 years;  it has gone from a small fishing village to a busy international holiday resort, but if we take a very long view, Bodrum is actually just finding its way back to the glories of its past.  There is evidence of Mycenaean life in Bodrum which takes us to at least 1400BC and it appears that the site was continuously occupied for the next 3,400 years.  We know that it was an important city in the 5th century BC when it was home to Artemisia 1 and historian Herodotus, but it really took off in the 4th century BC when Satrap Mausolos made it his capital city.  In this century monuments were constructed that were so massive that they could be seen from the island of Kos; Bodrum and bling have obviously had a very long association.  

Halicarnassos  - University of Southern Denmark 

As I walk the dog through the streets of Bodrum, I do so with an awareness of the layers of history under my feet. It is one of the reasons I love living here.  Yesterday, in the Karia Princess Hotel, Prof. Poul Pedersen showed a fascinating slide of present day Bodrum Streets (left)  and the hypothetical street plan in the 4th century BC (right), showing that today's street plan follows Mausolos' city design.   It's exciting to think that we are still treading in the footsteps of those who lived over two millennia  ago.  My own address is telling.  I live on Mars Mabedi Caddesi - Temple of Mars Street.  I didn't choose the house because of the address, but as a lapsed archaeologist, I never tire of writing it down. 

University of Southern Denmark

Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology - 50th Anniversary

Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, housed in the Castle of St. Peter, celebrated its 50th anniversary with a seminar in the English tower on Wednesday.  A packed audience listened to  Prof. Dr. Fahri Işık talk about the newly discovered sarcophagus of Hekatomnos; Doç Dr. Cemal Pulak on the Kaş-Uluburun 14th century BC shipwreck and Prof. Dr. Poul Pedersen on the Danish Halikarnassos project.  I've been following the excavations of Hekatomnos' mausoleum in Milas with great interest and have been frustrated at the lack of information available so I was really keen to hear Dr. Işık talk. And he did entertainingly and in great detail but unfortunately I can't tell you anything about it as he made us all promise to keep it under our hats until he publishes his report.

The names of the above speakers will pass merrily over most people's heads but those of you interested in archaeology will understand how lucky we are living in Bodrum to listen to not just one of them, but all three on one afternoon, although my rear end was protesting a bit after 3 hours on a narrow bench.  As usual with these events, time ran on and as the 4:30 slot for the final concert approached and whizzed past, the second talk was only half way through.  In consequence, Prof. Pedersen's talk was occasionally overlaid with voluble protests from the concert goers and by appalling slow hand-clapping from outside.  However, I'm sure he will have a much more appreciative audience when he gives another lecture organised by H3A on Wednesday 12th November at 2pm at the Karia Princess Hotel.  If you are anywhere near Bodrum I would urge you to put this date in your diary. 

No Excuses

Climbing to Pedasa acropolis c. 1985

I first visited Pedasa in about 1985. Access was via a hard climb from the Bodrum to Turgutreis main road, or a jeep trip through the centre of the Bodrum rubbish tip, (which was a revelation with its Dickensian rag-pickers living amidst the garbage), and then a rock strewn walk through mud and prickly shrubs.   When we arrived at the acropolis, apart from a sense of achievement at finding the site and a fantastic view of the sea to the North and South, we appreciated very little of the archaeology as nothing had been excavated.  If you have read my posts on Syangela and Termera you will know that access to most of the Lelegian citadels still involves a brisk walk and climb and I can understand why visitors to Bodrum are reluctant to waste a day hiking through rough terrain to see a “pile of stones” (my daughter’s description of most archaeological sites.) 

Time has rolled on and now there is no excuse to leave Pedasa off your itinerary. Extensive excavations are underway and a new road has been constructed.  Now it’s possible to drive all the way to the newly discovered Temple of Athena and the Sacred Road and the path to the acropolis has been laid with railway sleepers to aid access

According to Homer, the founders of the Lelegian towns in Bodrum  came originally from Pedasos near Troy and moved  South after the Trojan war.  Pedasa was the most important of the 8 settlements  and it was the most mentioned in ancient sources. The current archaeological excavation, which started in 2007, dates the town from the 2^nd millennium BC to the 13^th century AD.   Pedasa now has its own web site, pedasa.org unfortunately only in Turkish, but I recommend you have a look for the great photographs of ceramics, glass, jewellery, statuettes and coins found during the excavation plus aerial views of the site.

Steps to Pedasa acropolis 2014

Recently uncovered sacred road to the temple of Athena

Well sign-posted road to Pedasa from Konacik

Not all work and no play

After my last post my mother rang me, worried that I was on my last legs, so I thought I'd better reassure everyone that I'm still standing and a lot fitter than I was this time last year.  The many varied and uneven steps of Hydra have provided a great physical work-out.  My days on the island haven't been all slog and I took the opportunity of a lull in guests to take the ferry over to Metohi to meet up with Kath and Dave of campervan fame. An early ferry got me to the mainland by 7:30am and with almost military precision, as I stepped off the gangplank, Dave drove into the harbour,  (I say "harbour" because I'm not sure what to call a very large car park with a jetty).

By 9:30am, we had parked up in the enormous car park at Epidaurus, eaten breakfast and were primed to beat the Italian tour party to the ticket kiosk. By 10 am, I was spending my day-off climbing up stone steps. But it was worth it, just look at the view. Kath has already written about the site on her blog and I suggest you click here to see better photos and a description of the Ancient World's answer to Lourdes. 

An afternoon swim at an almost deserted beach after a lunch overlooking the island of Poros capped a fantastic day-off and primed me for the next two weeks.  Sadly this will be the last I see of Kath and Dave for a while as they drive back to resume life in the UK and go back to being "proper parents" in the words of their younger son  (who left home 2 years ago). 

Farewell campervan - every home should have one. 

Old Friends

1988

At the end of June, our old friends Kath and Dave drove their camper van out of our garden gate and set off for Greece. We were very sad to see them go and tried to persuade them to stay longer but they have a rendezvous with their elder son in Greece so had to get on their way. While they were here we looked through my photo albums and dug up some old pictures of our Famous Five trips. The one above is from 1988. We tried to find the same spot to picnic on the way back from Lagina but the recent road-widening  scheme has obliterated it and the best we could do was a lay-by.   In those days, the fifth member of our group was Brian, a German Shepherd/Anatolian Shepherd cross who shared our life for 10 years.

1988

2013

It is fun to compare the old with the new.  The theatre at Stratonikea has changed a lot in 25 years

1987

2013

We've had fun trying to recreate old photos, but time can't be rewound.  I look completely at ease in the top picture whereas 26 years later I was distinctly uncomfortable sitting on the same edge.

2013

We've had a great couple of weeks remembering old friends and rekindling forgotten memories. A true test of friendship is when it can be picked up and carried on despite the length of time in between visits.

Dave turns on the tap for the first time

Luckily I have a very practical reminder of their stay as while I was away in Scotland, Teo and Dave installed an irrigation system in our garden. I shall be reminded of our 2013 trips every time I turn on the tap.


You can follow Kath and Dave's camper van trip by clicking here

Kapıkırı - A Hard Sell.

The setting is blissfully peaceful and the description a history buff's dream: Kapıkırı sits on the remains of Carian Herakleia which was later settled by Byzantines. The city walls are well preserved with plenty of accessible look-out towers. Climb higher and caves reveal prehistoric paintings and Christian frescoes. The modern village with it's ancient ruins, nestles just below the Latmos mountains, a name which evokes the image of a libidinous Selene, goddess of the moon and the object of her passion, Endymion, destined to sleep forever for being too gorgeous.  

The approach skirts Bafa lake,  recognised as a wildlife treasury and duly accredited protective status as a national park.

Rock cut tombs

But we had been warned.  Home to a female sales force described in various guides as "robust", "persistent", "relentless", "intimidating" and "annoying", the women of Kapıkırı will hunt you down to get a sale.  They lurk on corners waiting for a hire-car or minibus to arrive and then shoulder their bundles of jewellery and headscarves and hurry off in pursuit to badger and pester new arrivals.

We had our secret weapon - a Teomanater - my husband can not be described as shy and retiring;  on London tubes he is fond of engaging the local loony or drunk in conversation, causing all other passengers to hide behind their papers in case he picks on them too.  As our first saleswoman, Ayşe, approached he subjected her to such a barrage of questions that she had to sit down and didn't even get chance to open her wares.

Our next two venders were rookies so I engaged them while trying to save Jake from a local canine  Lothario who had very amorous intentions . The girls were insistent that I should engage their services as minders to protect us from the "scary"(their word) pedlars in the theatre.

We'd been lucky so far and our arrival at the agora coincided with that of a minibus of more obvious potential and we were allowed to pass by unbothered. From the vantage point of a teahouse, we watched the ladies stalk any obvious tourist . We asked the menfolk sipping their teas what they thought of this commercial activity and not one had a good word to say about it. They'd also heard about the derogatory comments in guide books and on the web and weren't happy.  So it's obvious who wears the trousers in this village and they are flowery baggy ones.

As we walked back to the van we spotted Ayşe in the street but before we could get too close she had darted back into a garden and pretended not to see us.


There is a 3 TL entry fee to the village. 

Finding Keramos

I had no difficulty finding Keramos when I first visited in 1982.  We sailed into the wide bay at Ören, moored at the only jetty, made our way along the only road through the empty fields, came to a small village and ambled over walls and gardens visiting what I remember as quite abundant ruins.  My abiding memory is buying a warm Fanta and packet of biscuits  from a gas-lamp lit grocer shop and eating the paraffin flavoured biscuits as we walked back to the sea.

Ören has grown. The seaside is lined with cafes and and the pebble beach is full of sun beds. The fields  have filled with holiday houses and driving in, the road takes you straight to the sea.  Having not made an early start we arrived at lunch time and after a very hot wander along the front we stopped for a toast and beer on the front. I haven't recommended any restaurants in this blog yet but the Bi Lokma cafe deserves a mention. I love real chips and hate the frozen french fries so when I find a patron who answers the question "Do you have real chips?" with "I have plenty of potatoes so of course I'll make you some" I'm sold.

After lunch, we had to find our way back to the village. Easier said than done.  We now know that on the approach to Ören, after crossing the bridge, we should have taken the left road signposted paraşut yeri, then turned right at the sign to Keremos. Parked at the top of the village and with temperatures touching 36 degrees C we climbed up to find the city walls that clearly mark Keramos out as a Carian town. It is on record that it paid one and a half talents to the Delian League in the fifth century BC and by Roman times it was minting its own coinage and was a titular see of Asia Minor with three bishops mentioned in despatches.

We could see several promising bits of wall from up here and set off downhill to find them. Several times we came to dead ends or closed gates but eventually found ourselves by this wall of unusual polygonal shaped stones.

There are tempting glimpses of what may be underground

One day the archaeologists' trenches will tell us what is here. 

The modern cemetery provided an interesting contrast between the ancient sarcophagi and modern graves. It may have been in constant use for over 2500 years.

Not all recent additions are as sympathetically positioned

Either my memory is faulty or a lot of the site has been built on or moved elsewhere. There are better preserved ruins of a temple of Zeus in the hills above but they will have to be saved for a cooler day. 

One photo I can't resist putting in is the interior of Municipality Building. 

The contrast between the shiny white marble and green astroturf was quite mind altering, especially as the building was completely empty. (I made the mistake of visiting during the lunch hour).
Despite the heat, we had fun finding what is left above ground at Keramos but the remains don't merit a trip specially to see them. 

Last year I wrote about a visit to the Ören beach