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Thirty-two years ago I sailed into Kissebükü, although I can't recall the event exactly, the feeling is still with me. The air was stiller than normal but charged with a indescribable energy. We slowly motored around looking for a place to drop the anchor. We were the only yacht in the bay, but we could have been the only folk in the world, reality seemed to be suspended. As the chain rushed noisily into the sea, it felt as if we were violating a sacred atmosphere. Those of you who have never experienced this will think I've been to one too many creative writing classes and am getting a bit carried away, but I know that fellow sailors will be nodding and recreating the event and the scent of pine and the crystal clear turquoise water will be just as vivid in their minds as mine. Once moored the peace returned, the only sound the crackle of pebbles gently sweeping up and down the beach. A walk on shore was a revelation, tumble down buildings with apse shaped additions and strange beehive constructions that could have been churches or tombs, "Kisse" probably is a derivation of "kilise"or "church". I didn't realise then, but there are also Lelegian walls up in the mountains behind. This place, once discovered, epitomises why I and many more returned to or stayed in this corner of Turkey.
The good news is that a new generation of sailors is still enjoying Kissebükü. It hasn't changed. I no longer sail but occasionally make the long drive over the rough mountain roads to enjoy the peace. Others get there by walking along the Carian Trail between Ciftlik and Mazı.
The bad news is that the bay is under threat. Despite fighting off developers in 2005 and being granted protected status, permission has been given to build a 1000 bed hotel. Bodrumites are up in arms. A meeting held yesterday overflowed the building. The pouring of concrete on Kissebükü is a desecration no one in their right mind can accept.
I have added a link to a Change.org petition below. Scroll down for the English which gives all the information you need to make your own decision. Please sign and help protect Kissebükü.
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| Would this view be improved by the addition of a 1000 bed hotel? |
https://www.change.org/p/mavi-yol-girişimi-kissebükü-adaliyali-destek-ol-sesi-ol-imza-ver-support-it-be-the-voice-give-your-signature
the game has changed - and the goal posts have been well and truly moved. None of these decisions are now made, or can be effected, locally. It is all done in Ankara - permissions are sought there and licenses are granted from there. I'll sign your petition, but the days when a village like ours here at Okçular can stop a quarry or a town like Bodrum had any say in these 'development' matters has passed. Our latest challenge is a hot spring spa hotel being planned on (get this) a 500 sq mts plot. The locals have decided that it will only be stopped by extreme violence!
ReplyDeleteDevelopment has been stopped twice, fingers crossed for third time
DeleteAnd so it goes on. Duly signed, Annie.
ReplyDeleteThank you
DeleteSigned it ..... this would be a dreadful scar on the landscape.
ReplyDeleteI'm sure you remember sailing into beautiful empty bays
Deleteit should be impossible, it is a SIT ALANI,
ReplyDeletebut no : ankara descides and cashes the commission,
and after starting there, they will fill the complete coast from sea garden to ören !
the status of Specially Protected Areas, let alone SIT, has been torpedoed by recent legislation. Effectively, there is no longer protection anywhere, regardless of local or national concerns.
DeleteBest of luck in this campaign to protect the bay, Annie. Seems like the construction lobby and their political backers will not rest until they've destroyed whatever natural beauty is left for the rest of us to enjoy.
ReplyDeleteBodrum has always been the bloody-minded bit of Turkey . Hope we can stay autonomous
DeleteDear Annie, I am appalled. Don't you just hate politicians irrespective of nation and creed. There seems to be no stopping such arrogant ambition, that lacks all forms of human consciousness, anywhere in this world. It doesn't matter where you go, scum rises to the top and the higher up the tree you go the more monkeys you find. Sad. True. Painful.
ReplyDeleteArrogance just about sums it up.
DeleteI actually signed this earlier today having been notified by someone else. It would be awful if yet another hotel was allowed to spoil this beautiful spot.
ReplyDeleteIt is such an inaccessible spot by road, why insist on this bay?
DeleteWhat an incredible place - totally agree it would be wrecked by a hotel and will be signing without hesitation. Axxx
ReplyDeleteThanks Annie
DeleteThis would be sacrilege and I'm off to sign too. Your description of your first visit is so evocative and encapsulates why this bay should be protected. A 1000 bed hotel, forsooth!
ReplyDeleteForsooth! indeed.
DeleteWow, construction and Turkey and construction and... Apart from the construction angle, too, with regards to tourism, 1000 room hotels shouldn't be the way forward, either. Seems like every bit of coast is under threat now. Kabak, near us, is rumoured to be having a road built down to the bay...and once there's a road...
ReplyDeleteStunning piece of land and what a shame it would be to have that 1000 rooms there, I can't even grasp.. just signed the petition, many thanks for sharing. My very best wishes to you for the festive season, really hope to meet up in 2015 - looks like Bodrum maybe in the cards for 2015 summer : ) Cok sevgiler, Ozlem
ReplyDeleteSigned and shared on Facebook.
ReplyDelete