After nearly three weeks of carting groceries up stone steps, my knees are crying out for mercy. Thank goodness I got into the exercise habit at b-fit in Bodrum over the winter and had at least built up a bit of muscle. The first few trips from harbour to house nearly winded me but I'm almost used to it now. The early morning jog is not too bad but the afternoon slog with temperatures in the mid 30s needs a specially adapted headscarf to stop the sweat running off my forehead blinding me. After all my years living in Turkey, it is a hilly Greek island that has finally got me to cover my head with a scarf.