A guest post from my daughter Esi.
We moved to the UK when Esi was 8 so she only spent 3
years in Turkish Schools. While in England, she lost the patriotism
that is drummed into Turkish kids but last week, on a visit to see army
recruits at their passing out parade, she reconnected with her innate Turkish pride.
A full month after my prospective brother-in-law was
conscripted into the army we got the chance to see him. We
woke up at 7.15am, packed our bags and left for Manisa Kırklağaç.
The road from Bodrum was so quiet and peaceful, not a
sound of a car horn or modified exhausted to be heard. I was hopeful for a
wonderful drive up to Aydın to pick up my fiance Celal's parents. We stopped
on the way for some lentil soup and salad for breakfast (sad
to say I am currently on a new diet that doesn't
allow me to have dairy or eggs... so no cheese or a hard boiled egg for me!)
By the time we arrived at Çine, we were greeted by Celal's parents and
there was a rush to get everything packed in the back of the car. They
insisted we take supplies to people who wanted them, so
the back of the car was full of olive oil, vegetables and village eggs.
Great, I thought to myself, we have now started a farm delivery service... Sadly the silence of Bodrum seemed
far behind us as we hit traffic towards Aydın. The
plans changed again when it was decided to see my brother-in-law's wife. Anyway after seeing her we set off towards Izmir. Even
though we are in the car, looking out onto the greens and newly
blossomed almond and peach trees, I couldn’t
help but think how beautiful Turkey is the further North we went once
away from the cities. Celal’s parents and I were singing along to some Turkish songs and enjoying the view and talking about what happens in the
army and listening to Celal and his father sharing their army stories was
magical. They both had very different experiences, same scenery but different
jobs. Celal's dad was on foot and Celal was in tanks. Listening to Celal
really made me realise that the army was not always a proud memory for men. As
much as he loved the friends he made he also had bad experiences that
not a lot of men feel comfortable speaking about.
As we arrived at Manisa we decided we had time to go
see where my brother-in-law was and visit him for some dinner. As we
parked the car I almost burst with excitment. This was my first time walking
into an Army camp. Sadly for Celal, it brought back some bad memories and it
took him a long time to walk to the entrance squeezing my hand so tight I
thought my fingers were going to break.
Walking into the army block I heard men shouting. I
couldn’t hear what they were saying but it sounded something like a commander
saying "we are" and the soldiers saying "yes commander" I
felt butterflies in my stomach. We waited in the visitors lounge for my brother
-in-law to come through the door. Normally I do not gawk at people but I could
not help myself but watch the soldiers march past. I saw my brother-in-law
walking past with a gun, marching with dignity and a cheeky smile to say hey I
see you.
After taking the guns back he ran over to us and gave
us all hugs (apart from his dad who is like a plank when it comes to affection)
We all sat down and he told us stories of who is who and what the commander had
told him about assignments and training. Rain, wind or sun they had to wake up
at 3am and gather around to hear what they were doing that day. It was amazing
to see so many 20 year olds in one place. Some short, some tall, some chunky and
some skinny, a few with glasses. As time went on we met some of my
brother-in-law's friends and said hello to their families and slowly slowly
people became one. I, on the other hand, felt like an outsider as people knew
exactly what was going on in the army and I had no idea. My father did army
service and so did my cousin and uncle but I do not hear any stories about
their past experiences so I had no clue.
After a wonderful nights sleep in a nearby hotel, we
all went to the army camp for my brother-in-law's 20 Tören (swearing on the
gun). Thousands and thousands of people were arriving and I was shocked. We had
to walk about for 1 hour from where we could leave the car up the hills of
Manisa Kırkağaç to get to the army camp. I was horrified. In the pouring rain
we all got SOAKED! We finally arrived and took our seats right at the back. We
waited about half an hour for the soldiers to come out but it was well worth
the wait. In this particular army there were 15 sections. I didn't know how
many soldiers would be in these sections. 1 came out... 2 came out...and
already up to 200/300 soldiers had arrived. The march went on and on and on and
all I could feel was my heart pumping, hearing their feet stamp on the ground
and lots of shouting. People were clapping, mothers were crying, wives were screaming
out their husbands' names. It was very emotional.
We saw my brother-in-law. He was in the 12th section,
3 rows back, first on the right. I recognised him straight away because sadly
his ears gave him away... The march went on for a good 45 minutes before the
senior soldiers came out dressed in their very handsome uniform, cap and gun
tucked under the arm with a sash full of badges. The tallest of the tall Celal
whispered in my ear thinking I would know who these professional soldiers were. After
the fancy soldiers came out the national anthem began. Soldiers shouting so
loudly I could barely hear the sound track. At this point almost half of the
people standing in the audience were crying with hands on their hearts and the
other half taking videos on their phone or ipads. After the national anthem,
row by row soldiers stepped up to put one arm by the gun and the other on their
partner's shoulder/hip (depending on how tall they were) and say "Önce
Vatan, Her Zaman, Her Yerde" meaning "First Country, All the Time,
Everywhere". This took up to an hour as there were so many people. Celal
then told me that there was at least 2000 people in this section, maybe more.
Then BANG BANG BANG! At the top of the towers, 3
soldiers with guns, all at once fired into the air. I can safely say in the
future if I go to another one of these ceremonies I will have to wear a diaper. But the
rush was fantastic. After the guns went off it was the end of the parade and
soldiers went back to their quarters to get changed to go home to family for 2
days. Then Monday will be the day that they get assigned to their new units
I know it's a long story but I can honestly say there
was nothing like being a part of my brother-in-law's laws journey to manhood. I
am proud to be a Turk (and English). We are strong. People think Turkey is a
horrible place at the moment due to what's happening on the borders, but after
this trip I have faith in my country.
.
Awesome read. Thanks.
ReplyDeleteThank you, who ever you are.
DeleteWhat a vivid account! Thanks for this insight into one aspect of Turkish life.
ReplyDeleteIt's a sight I've never seen
DeleteSo often we have seen young male Turkish friends disappear for a few months or over a year to do their military service. They return a while later and that's it, apart from the off Facebook photo. Lovely to read this account - a great picture into the (beginning of the) world of military service.
ReplyDeleteWe just see the cars driving around draped in the flag, pipping horns
DeleteAn enthralling read from Esi - watch out Annie, she'll be taking over your blog ...
ReplyDeleteI'm happy to hand over anytime
DeleteB to B, Thanks for the gripping slice of life provided by Esi.
ReplyDeleteNot having a son, I haven't seen any of this
DeleteWell done Esi for your vivid recreation - I will comment no further. As an ex-professional soldier who has seen much and done much I fundamentally disagree with everything that this 'parade' represents.
ReplyDeleteGot to brain wash the masses some how.
DeleteBeautiful peace, loved it Esi, elinize saglik - indeed Annie, you have a wonderful writer daughter by your side, how lovely : ) Cok selam ve sevgilerimle, Ozlem x
ReplyDeleteThanks on Esi's behalf.
DeleteA great piece from the adorable Esi.
ReplyDeleteLoved this.
ReplyDelete