Cooking octopus is one of the issues that divide the Greeks and the Turks: Both agree that the body has to be turned inside out and the innards and ink sack discarded - both slap the octopus on a rock at least forty times to tenderize it and then rub the octopus on a rock, like washing on a washboard (as if anyone knows what one of these is now) until it produces its own foam. After removing the beak and eyes, the Turkish cooks will then put it in a pot to braise slowly in its own juices. The Greek cooks hang the octopus out on a washing line to dry. This gruesome sight used to turn my stomach in my early days in the Aegean, but after eating octopus in both Kos and Bodrum, I have to side with the Greeks. The best way to eat this fish is to have it grilled on hot coals washed down with a glass of Ouzo or Raki. Octopus is mostly water and drying it in the sun, desiccates it and intensifies the flavour. If octopus is allowed to steam, it turns into rubber. The Italians have another take on cooking this delicacy; they add a wine cork to the cooking pot! No Italian I have met, has been able to adequately explain the science of this to me.